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Insurance

Liability-Only Car Insurance

By AssistQuote Editorial Team

Reviewed by Shannon James Russell· Former licensed insurance agent and financial educator

Published September 24, 2026 · Last updated October 1, 2026

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The short answer

Liability-only car insurance pays for injuries and damage you cause to other people. It doesn't pay to fix or replace your own car. It's the cheapest way to meet most states' legal requirements, and it can make sense for an older, paid-off car.

Here's what liability covers, what it leaves out, and a simple test for deciding whether it's enough for you.

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What liability insurance covers

Liability has two parts:

  • Bodily injury liability pays for injuries you, or family members on your policy, cause to someone else. That includes their medical bills, and it helps if you're sued after a serious crash.
  • Property damage liability pays for damage you cause to someone else's property, like their car, a fence, or a building. It also covers someone driving your car with your permission.

Your limits are usually written as three numbers. For example, 30/60/25 means $30,000 per injured person, $60,000 per crash for injuries, and $25,000 for property damage.

What liability-only doesn't cover

This is the big trade-off. With liability only, you're on your own for:

  • Your car's damage after a crash you cause. That's what collision coverage pays for.
  • Theft, hail, flood, fire, vandalism, or hitting a deer. That's what comprehensive coverage pays for. Learn what comprehensive covers.
  • Your own injuries, in many states, unless you add medical payments, personal injury protection, or uninsured motorist coverage.

People often call a policy with liability, collision, and comprehensive "full coverage." It isn't an official term, but that's what most people mean.

The 10-times test: is liability-only enough?

The Insurance Information Institute offers a simple rule of thumb. If your car is worth less than 10 times what you pay each year for collision and comprehensive, those coverages may not be worth it.

Example: your car is worth $4,000. Collision and comprehensive cost you $600 a year. Ten times $600 is $6,000, which is more than the car is worth. Dropping to liability-only may make sense.

Liability-only may fit if:

  • Your car is older and paid off
  • You could afford to repair or replace it yourself
  • You have other transportation if it's totaled

Keep full coverage if:

  • You have a loan or lease. Your lender usually requires collision and comprehensive until the loan is paid off.
  • Your car is worth a lot, or you couldn't replace it
  • You live where hail, floods, or theft are common

A middle path: keep collision and comprehensive but raise your deductibles. The Insurance Information Institute says going from a $200 to a $500 deductible can cut those costs by 15% to 30%. A $1,000 deductible can save 40% or more.

Don't go too low on the liability itself

Dropping collision and comprehensive is one thing. Cutting your liability limits to the bare minimum is another. State minimums are often low compared with today's medical bills and car prices. If you cause a serious crash and the costs go past your limits, you could owe the rest.

Higher liability limits often cost less than people expect. Ask for quotes at a few levels.

What your state requires

Liability requirements vary by state. A few examples:

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Questions people ask

Injuries and property damage you cause to other people. It doesn't pay to repair or replace your own car.

A common rule: if your car is worth less than 10 times what you pay each year for collision and comprehensive, those coverages may not be worth it. If you have a loan or lease, your lender usually won't let you drop them.

It meets the legal requirement in most states. Whether it's enough depends on your car's value, your savings, and how much you could lose in a lawsuit.

Your own liability doesn't. The at-fault driver's liability should pay. If they're uninsured, you'd need uninsured motorist coverage.

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